Friday, June 29, 2012

Boats, Bonfires and Tsunami

Up until supper time on Good Friday in 1964 it was a normal day. Then, at 5:37 pm, the largest earthquake ever recorded in North America devastated most of south-central Alaska.  Post-quake tsunamis severely affected Whittier, Seward, Kodiak, and other Alaskan communities, as well as people and property in British Columbia, Oregon, and California. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1964_Alaska_earthquake)

With the RV parked just 20 yards off the bay at Seward, when the daily tsunami test siren sounds at noon, it causes you to stop and ponder how to escape to the hills should it sound at some other time.  Unlike tornadoes, hurricanes and bad relationships, there are no signs that an earthquake might be coming.

After days, the rain and thick clouds are gone revealing the ever present sun.  It's cool enough for a long sleeve shirt, but the sun is warm and refreshing.  I'm sitting in the RV catching up on work today with an occasional break to take pictures or gather drift wood for the fire tonight.  It's lovely here.

Last night we enjoyed a show of sea otters out the window at the restaurant.  And then walked the pier and watched the filleting of the days halibut catch on J dock.

It feels good to settle in somewhere for a while.  Nomads need a break too.








Thursday, June 28, 2012

6 minutes under ground

In World War II, a railroad tunnel was built to connect the deep water port of Whittier, Alaska to the main rail line at Portage, about fifty miles southeast of Anchorage. In June 2000 the single lane tunnel was opened to vehicle traffic straddling the rail road tracks!

It's a strange feeling to be entering a railroad tunnel.  We were the only vehicle entering Tuesday evening and for a scary few seconds I was worried I had taken a wrong turn some how.  After six minutes we emerged from the 2.5 mile tunnel which is the longest vehicle tunnel in North America.

Today we went on a glacier tour which was excellent.  Toward the end the rain began and has not let up.  We are parked on Seward with the front of the RV looking out on the bay.  Rain.  Clouds.  Fog.  But hey, it's nice sweater weather and not 100F here.




Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Igloo

After a strenuous walk yesterday arriving back at the RV at 11pm (still very light), I rose to an alarm for the first time in weeks to make a business call. After knocking out some other work, it became a laid back day leaving Denali park.

Saw a moose.
Saw an igloo.
Saw a crashed air plane strapped to the back of a truck.
Saw rocky mountains poking up through thick clouds.
Listened to Bruce Hornsby, Merle Haggard and the Goo Goo Dolls.
Saw the center line pulling me down the road to a new place .... A new adventure.

Sunday, June 24, 2012

Spoiler warning

Reindeer can't fly.

North of Fairbanks about 10 miles there is a place that has meaner mosquitoes than in town and you can pet and hang out with reindeer for as long as you have blood.

- - -

Just had great coffee at Black Bear Coffee near Denali National Park. We are trying to decide if we want to ride one of the school buses into the park tomorrow on an 8 or 12 hour trip. I'm pushing hard for going back to see the reindeer.

Hiking today in Denali Park

Thursday, June 21, 2012

The end is only the beginning


In the spring of 1980 at Jefferson City High School, I was a graduating senior and we pretty much ran the place.  We had done all the work. We had figured it all out.  We had arrived.  It was our school. We were the top dogs. 

In November of the same year, I flew into San Diego one pleasant evening and boarded a camouflage school bus with 43 other young studs.   Seconds after the bus pulled to a stop behind an old barracks, an angry man with four stripes on his sleeve came aboard the bus and told us we were not supposed to be on the bus, but instead should be lined up in neat rows outside.  He'd apparently received a report that we were the stupidest bunch of recruits they'd ever received, mentioned our mothers, and said that "you'd better not be the last one off this _____ bus!".  In the scramble for the door, I quickly realized that I was no longer the top dog and had possibly made a bad mistake.

After more than three years in the Corps, I'd made my way to sergeant with a few stripes and was in charge of the night crew maintenance on some million dollar helicopters.  During those wee hours each night, everything thing that happened in the squadron came through me.  I was the top dog.  
Less than a year later, I walked into my first class at Southwest Missouri State University.  Looking around the room I wondered if these kids had really been to high school or possibly just middle school. The English professor was talking slowly to us to make sure we didn’t get too confused.  I was nowhere near the top dog.  I was a Freshman.

After years of endless study, projects, exams, and hard work,  I was now a senior in Mechanical Engineering at the University of Missouri – Rolla.  I’d endured a daily beating with differential equations in Dr. Crosbie’s heat transfer class.  I had passed an eight hour comprehensive exam in engineering. With a sharp resume and new suit, I’d successfully interviewed fifty times and pulled down five good job offers.  I had done all the work. I’d figured it all out.  Surely I was some sort of top dog. I felt successful.

A week later I started my new job as a Design Engineer with the Paul Mueller Company in Springfield.  I arrived prepared to design something.  On day two, I approached the desk of the division secretary and asked where a completed large format drawing should be filed.  With an eye roll and body language that spoke volumes, she informed me that “we don’t fold them like that” and asked, “don’t they even teach you to fold drawings up there at Rolla?”. 

I was a Freshman again.

Yesterday we completed the Alaska Highway in Delta Junction and it reminded me that the end is often just the beginning.

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Stomp your face

             
The long shadows on the Top of the World Highway reminded me of a game we’d play as kids.  During the carefree days of summer, when the shadows grew long in the evening, we’d jump around on the driveway trying to stomp on each other’s shadow.  That child is still around and is enjoying a little time on the driveway. 

After camping by Fox Lake North of Whitehorse Monday night, we continued up the Klondike Highway to Dawson City, Yukon.  We drove out Bonanza Creek and found where the first claim was staked that started the Klondike Gold Rush, bringing men the grueling 600 miles journey from Skagway or Dyea to Dawson.
The road continues across the Yukon river with a free ferry ride.  Climbing only 10 miles out of Dawson I could quickly see why they call the road the Top of the World Highway.   It’s built on the ridge line and you can see 100 miles in all directions much of the time.  We camped along the road though the sun seemed it would never drop.  

Tuesday, I built a pile of rocks near the border and we rolled back into the States.   When we arrived in Tok, AK,  I was worn out from jamming gears and dodging potholes.
It’s Wednesday morning now (3 hours behind Central) and I’m catching up on emails, doing some work and contemplating washing the RV.  The bugs and dirt are pretty thick and I’m sure is hurting my gas mileage.






Sunday, June 17, 2012

Kung Pao Guy Ding

If you are in Whitehorse, Yukon stop at the North Dragon restaurant!

Spent the day hiking around here. Saw the longest fish ladder (look it up) in the world.

Headed out toward Dawson tonight. The sun looks like its late afternoon.

Pictures along the way

Link to Pictures 1

Saturday, June 16, 2012

Dear Dad

I love you Dad.


You are such an inspiration to me.  When I hear the highway calling, it sometimes sounds like your voice.  I remember times when we would travel together down a long stretch of road for hours on end.... you'd guide the car at steady speeds while in a pleasant trance.  Then, out of the silence you'd say,  "I think I could make Amarillo tonight." with that twinkle in your eye.  What bliss.

I look forward to getting back and having some long visits.  Thank you for all the love and encouragement.  Thank you for the belly laughs we share.

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY.    You are an awesome Dad.


Friday, June 15, 2012

FINALLY......Alaska !

When you work toward something so long, sometimes when you get it, it's just not as good as you'd imagined.  Thus the recommendations to "enjoy the journey".  My first impression of precious 49 is better  than I'd have imagined. Driving down the South Klondike Highway yesterday evening we wound down, down, down to the town of Skagway after passing customs.

The combination of stunning beauty, glacier carved terrain,  ingenuity to build a road and rails through a treacherous mountain pass, returning to my home country, and attaining the goal.... all made the event beyond words.   To finally touch the border sign meant more than 4000 miles.  It meant following a dream.  Seeking my passion.  Taking risks.  Questioning my pragmatism.  It meant stopping the car at the swimming hole of my life, stripping down and jumping in.

Finally Alaska!

you started something Carl

In Watson Lake, Yukon, in 1942, private Carl Lindley built a simple signpost pointing out the distances to various points along the ALCAN and added a sign with the distance to his home town.  Now, there are over 70,000 signs as travelers add more each year.

Michele and I collaborated on our sign (except spell check) and I created it with suggestions from my friends at Springfield Pottery before the expedition started.  Yesterday we hung the sign despite the rain.


We also used clues from a picture from Dad and Spencer's  2001 trip and after an hour, found their sign which Spencer had hung.

(Wednesday - it two days to get a decent enough signal to post this)









Wednesday, June 13, 2012

It's still the Yukon


"The extreme climate and remoteness meant that the prices of food and supplies were high and news from the world outside the Klondike in short supply."[167][173]

Some things haven't changed much since the gold rush days.  Yesterday on the ALCAN I paid $18.75 for a bowl of good chili and a bowl of bad chicken noodle soup.  Of course that came with toast. Oh and a glass of water. Internet reception is sketchy at best since I crossed into Canada.  Today I have a good strong signal at the campground in Watson Lake, but so does everyone else!  I click SEND on an email and then go wash a load of laundry. So much for working.

I'd like to post some pictures for those of you following, but its too painfully slow.  Maybe when I reach 49.

All is well.  Headed over the Rockies tomorrow to Whitehorse....then maybe a tangent down to Skagway.

steve

a normal day in the Yukon

Video Link

Monday, June 11, 2012

Washout pix

Pix at Canyon Creek Saturday - thanks Joseph Bradley



2001

In the summer of 2001 my son Spencer (age 10) and my Dad headed out on an RV adventure to Alaska.  I've always been thrilled dad made this happen and that Spencer was up to the challenge.   Now I'm enjoying following along in their tracks as I make my own. 

Today we found the very interesting Fort Nelson Heritage Museum which was put together by Marl Brown.  Marl told me how four years ago he drove his wife to Whitehorse in his this 100 year old Buick!






Dad and Spence - these pix are for you

ALCAN closure update - Monday 10:00am


Road closed due to washout at Canyon Creek near Swift River (Km 1002 to Km 1243).

South Alaska Highway between Watson Lake and Teslin – CLOSED
Crews in the Rancheria area are building a one-lane pioneer road across the washout to allow traffic to start moving north and south on the Alaska Highway between Teslin and Watson Lake. Highways and Public Works anticipate that the pioneer road will be completed later today.
Once the detour road is ready, a controlled release of traffic will be coordinated by the RCMP and Highways and Public Works crews. Vehicles in Rancheria will be released first, followed by those in Watson Lake and then Teslin.   LINK


Just enjoyed the Heritage Museum here at Fort Nelson, British Columbia and talked to the old guy that started it.  Amazing collection of equipment and cars. 

Will head to Muncho Lake  tomorrow.  There is room there (12 spots as of 4:00pm local Monday) and better WIFI according to the gal here at the visitor center based on her own personal visit there.

More info on the roads here

Sunday, June 10, 2012

Road situation -ALCAN

For you other travelers North on the ALCAN, I've enjoyed talking to you.  Thanks for dropping by.  I'm guessing we might have plenty of time to chat in the coming days.

I'd appreciate any updates of solid info about road conditions.  Ideally links or phone numbers.  Click on the COMMENT button below or email to stevecook3dw@gmail.com


Here is what I know so far as of Sunday 10JUNE 1400 local

- road closures on the ALCAN in Yukon

- I haven't found anything published on road closures in British Columbia.

- We got a reservation at the Triple G this morning in Fort Nelson and are heading there.
- I talked to the gal at the Fort Nelson visitor center and she only warned that the road is closed after Watson Lake.  She said it may be a few days till it gets opened. No other issues between Dawson Creek and there.

- thanks to Gary from San Diego for these numbers and sites.


Saturday, June 9, 2012

Houston, we have a problem

Apollo 13 is one of those movies I'm ready to watch again....and it looks like I might have time.

The road to Alaska is closed!  And there is no way around.....except a very long gravel road and a section of it is closed too!

The scuttlebutt is that the RV parks are full between here (Dawson Creek) and Watson Lake.  Tomorrow after church we'll dump tanks, fill the propane and water and head up there and see for ourselves.

Oh, and I think I'll download Apollo 13 from iTunes while I still have some access.


photo courtesy Fairbanks News-Miner

Radio Shack Falls

Radio Shack Falls Video Link - (click here)

Lake Louise


Think metric

After surrendering the strawberries and grapes as a crossing sacrifice, we are finally driving up in the 90 to 100 speed range.

Rain. Rain. Rain. I saw three ducks beside the road all huddled under an umbrella.

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Glacier National Park

Rainy days are great for thinking about sunshine.  After two such soggy days and lots of loafing, the sun elbowed its way through the RV blinds with vigor this morning, announcing that it was a new day with new adventures to be had.  Let's go.

In 1981 I was working on Marine Corps helicopters and received a post cards from my grandparents, Lark and Louise.  It was an amazing photo of the  Going-to-the-Sun Highway in Glacier National Park.  I decided right then I needed to see that some day.  Unlike waiting 35 years to see Alaska, I went to Glacier just a couple of years later on a great road trip after my June wedding in 1983. I recall some of the vista being unmatched by anything I've seen to date.

Today, a good portion of the Logan pass road is closed because they are still removing SNOW !  They apparently also discriminate against people who buy RVs longer than 22 feet.  We made it as far as Avalanche.  Stopped and had lunch on the lake shore and sat in awe of the mountains.

The ONLY reason I'm moving on today is because this expedition is supposed to be an Alaska adventure, right!?

Enjoy the pix and the upside down video!  Drop me a line. 





Steve